History Alive

Smitty outside a German stronghold

Typically, living in the middle of historic places and events makes the abstract a reality.  It is certainly true of Germany.  My perspective on both World Wars has changed since moving to the land where the wars were fought.  So, when we were invited to tour a battle site for World War I, we quickly agreed.

French WWI cemetery

The World War I trenches are tucked into the mountains above the Rhine plain.  A huge French flag and rows of crosses drew us into a memorial to the War to End All Wars.  A sense of quiet somberness permeated the hillside.  Across the way, at the top of another hill, stood a large cross.  After a few moments of reflection we started toward it.

Observation/gun turret

The path rose up the hill, bordered by wildflowers and trees which grew in clumps, the ground still packed from the action of 1914-18.  At the top of the hill, standing under the cross, we saw several metal guard turrets, just a few feet above the level of the ground. Inside, a seat and viewing slits to watch for enemies.  We walked into a trench with flower-covered walls.  Finally, we came to a point where the trench jutted left and a rock outcropping covered a cave which had housed medics and injured during the war.  WWI  became more real.

Walking through a French trench

We crossed several yards of flat ground-no man's land-and entered into one of the German trenches.  The difference was dramatic as the Germans had several more years to build their trenches than had the French.  Tunnels wove underground connecting supply and battle arenas.   Often steps had been cut into the rock.  Hand-stacked rocks and cement created strong trench walls.  Other places allowed a protected view so a man could stand and shoot without having to peek above the trench level, unlike the French who "popped up", hoping to not get hit.

Dan in the tunnel with air compressor

Walking farther, a tunnel revealed an air compressor, and pipes, that carried the air to the jackhammers the Germans used, lay across the path.  The dramatic views of the Alsace combined with the beauty of the flowers and trees to fool me into thinking of this place as peaceful, yet the multitude of rock fortifications quietly screamed that many had died there.  The trenches brought an angst for the loss of life in such an extraordinary place.

View of Alsace, looking toward the Rhine and the Black Forest

We took our visiting friends back this week when it was rainy and cold, more appropriate to the setting.  I am both drawn to and repelled by the trenches in the mountains of the Vosges.   What a privilege to visit and, yet, how sad to stand where so many brave men had died.